Pages

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Barcelona


Barcelona is a magnificent town well worth the visit, both for quality and price. Avoid the tourist traps like the downtown area near the Ramblas and the Plaza de Cataluña. 90% of all tourists go, stay and lodge there. The only thing you'll find there are high prices, plastic souvenirs, postcards, people begging for money, and hordes of tourists from everywhere taking pictures. No natives at all! Go far away, my pick is the neighborhood called Gracia and anything beyond in the Zona Alta or so called High Neighborhoods since as you get away from downtown you are going uphill. Here, you've got paradise, only smiling natives eager to get to know you and talk to you. Also theaters, cinemas, outdoor concerts, green parks, cheap restaurants with menú del días (starter, main course, dessert and wine) for 10 euros! There is a slow feeling to these areas as you kick back, have a sangria, take a walk, explore the farmers' markets, old bookshops. In Gracia you've got it all. As its name suggests, it has been touched by the "grace of God". By the way, real seasoned travellers to Barcelona know that you have to rent an apartment, not a hotel room. For as little as 500 euros for two weeks you can have a two bedroom apartment with equipped kitchen, bath, living room, dining room and balcony!
Yes, my friend, go up up up, to San Gervasio and Sarriá, these are the trendy new spots with hot clubs, cafés and restaurants. You'll feel a hundred miles away from that raucous port.

Top 10 list
1. Puerta del Sol, Plaza del Diamante, and other squares in Gracia
2. Parque Güell, take subway all the way up to the top and walk down
3. Take the train up San Gervasio, and then up to the top Mt. Tibidabo
4. El carrer mayor de Sarriá. Hang out there in the evening
5. The mansions on Calle Pedralbes. Walk down from the top of the hill
6. Pabellón de Gaudí, Calle Pedralbes at the bottom of the hill
7. Take a regional train to Sitges del Mar, the most beautiful beach town.
8. Check out the Gaudí houses on Paseo de Gracia (Sat. best)
9. Hang out in El Borne in the evening, the gentrified ghetto with swanky cafés and shops.
10. See a zarzuela concert at El Palau de la Música Catalana and check out the Gaudí architecture and frescos.

Personally, I'd avoid the Barceloneta and its spoiled beaches, Montjuich and its spoiled beauty and overrated museums, the Barrio Gótico during the day, the Picasso musuem (kind of small for the price), also the Sagrada Familia until its more finished. For now it's a noisy construction zone filled with tourists, cranes and policemen. Totally overrated. And get away from those Ramblas

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Catalan is not preferential 2

Update:

On the street in Barcelona Spanish is the lingua franca. This is now true even in the historic Catalan neighborhoods like Gracia and Sarrià. Spanish now has the advantage despite the afforementioned laws enforcing/imposing Catalan in the government, the public and private sectors, the media and public schooling. Most of the people in Barcelona are not driven by nationalism, language or culture more than in any other city in Spain. There is ambivalence to speaking in Catalan or Spanish. I heard quite often "lo mismo da", more or less "who cares". This of course is in stark contrast to the regional parliament that promotes rigourously the language and independence of Catalonia.

As for TV, there are at least 10 spanish channels for 1 catalan. Pretty much the same for the press, books, films, video games and music.... The reason is simple: they come into Catalunya from Madrid, where there is, of course, no language rules or quotas.

All in all I have mixed feelings, indeed. I celebrate the openness of the Catalan people, the visible lack of nationalism, the solidarity with the rest of Spain, and the continued use of Spanish. I was fearing a very different scenario. However, I am sad that Catalan continues to decline. I love Catalan and speak it pretty fluently. I can certainly see how its use is diminishing. I'm sure this is the reason for the rigid laws they have passed and the calls for independence by the nationalists in parliament. This is obviously the wrong way to promote Catalan. Outside Catalonia, Catalan is seen as the agressor. In Barcelona, it also contributes to the creation of this atmosphere of "Catalan, Spanish, whatever!" In reality, there is a serious threat to Catalan's survival. A recent survey indicated that only 33% speak it daily. Find another way. Strong arming has failed.
Rontay Merquiades